Hold the tool over a bench with the
blade pointing away from you.
Spin off the brass nuts and let the blade drop to the bench.
Sometimes the blade will not fall completely out of the "Stock".
If it still remains in the stock flip the tool over, so
the blade remains pointed away from you, and lay it on the bench.
Carefully grab the tips of the tangs with your thumbs and
forefingers and lift the blade out.
With the blade is out note the two Jack Screws just inside each tang
stud hole. Take a standard Phillips head screwdriver and turn the
screws clockwise to lower the blade for a smaller cut and
alternately counter-clockwise for thicker cut.
A very little change
goes a long way here - as little as a 1/12th turn can make a
difference. Carefully replace the blade and nuts (these should be
snug to avoid chatter) and test. Repeat as necessary until you are
getting the shavings you expect. The tools are tuned with the goal
of giving the user a cut across the full length of the cutter.
Many people like to have a blade set a little higher on one
side to give a deeper cut on one side of the blade. Figure 4 shows
the blade slightly higher on one side.
NOTE on the CIGAR SHAVE:
The following is important for getting the
most out of this tool. When you are cutting a very tight inside
curve you will need to let the blade out a little so it can bite
into the work.
Holding the Tool
When using the shave it is better to "choke-up" on the stock to get
the best control.
Experienced users tend to hold the shave with
their first two fingers on the square part of the stock on either
side of the blade, with their thumbs on the opposite side. Their
other two fingers wrap around the inside curve of the handles.
technique works best on a push stroke, especially when "lifting" the
shaving by bringing the front of the tool up at the end of the
When pulling the shave across the work spreading
your fingers on the back of the shave helps in control. Apply even pressure to the tang studs to push the blade down and