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  Forging a Draw Knife by Jay F. Knowlton, Junior College Shop Instructor, Hibbing, Minn., 1921

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 The draw knife should be forged from a better grade of steel than our regular cast steel grade; however, very good results can be obtained from such grade if a little care is used in the finish hammering of the blade.  If the blade is carefully worked it will hold a very good cutting edge.

The drawings show the method of forging a six inch blade draw knife.  If an eight inch blade is wanted, simply add the two inches and forge the handles as shown.

The stock shown is one-fourth inch thick, one inch wide and eleven and .one-half inches long.  Start from the center of the stock and measure off the length of the blade, center punch and fuller as shown in Fig. 1.

Now draw out the handles to size and note that they run one1'ourth by one-half for two inches before the taper starts.  The taper starts at the point where the bend will be made later. Leave the handles straight at present.

Now place the groove in the blade as shown in Fig. 2 with a fourth inch top fuller.

This is the most difficult part of the work, as the groove must neither be too high nor too low, and at the same time it must be straight.  If each handle has been carefully forged to one-half inch wide, little difficulty will be experienced.

Start the fuller at each end first then work to the center.  Notice that the groove comes up in the handle a little and leave the back of the blade seven-sixteenth inch wide.  The groove should be one-eighth inch deep, leaving the blade one-eighth inch thick.

The blade is now drawn out with a set hammer to the thickness required.  This will cause the blade to curve backward which makes it necessary to straighten the back often. 

When finished, the blade has a little curve but it is bettor to have the blade straight until after the draw knife is ground and polished.

The forging will leave the ends of the blade a little uneven, which should now be squared with a file, leaving the corner next to the handle round.  The work should now be placed on a medium emery wheel and the rough hammer marks removed, after which it can be buffed on the 60 wheel.

Now see that the handles are the same size and length, and after marking the two inches for the bend with a center punch, bend the handles to the angle shown in Fig. 4.

Now bend the handles back out of line with the blade as shown in the end view of the assembled drawing.  The back of the draw knife can now be given the bend shown and the cutting edge can be filed straight. With a file or emery wheel, put on the three-sixteenth bevel shown on the back of the draw knife in the assembled drawing.


 
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