Ever have to scribe fit
to fit a
How about fitting a
bulkhead or partition-wall panel into the inside hull of a yacht
or ship? Can you scribe fit a curve as high as 7 feet and as
deep as 3 feet? And in a space where nothing is square, little
is plumb and level changes constantly with payload and wind?
Welcome to the world of interior ship joinery sans lasers and
computers, and file away another handy but simple, old-time
skill for when you may need it.
I took a half hour and
got out some scaled-down panels, sticks and battens to answer a
question on how to build bunkbeds into the inside curve of a
yacht hull. Now there are plenty of yachts sufficiently
slab-sided for simple scribe fitting to work. But not this one.
This one is a 180-ton ocean-going tug being converted to a
family liveaboard. The space in question is around 7 feet high
with a bulge in the outside wall around three feet deep. Time to
get out some ticking sticks.
First some old-time
jargon. Woodworkers “make” or “build” objects and their
components. Boatbuilders and shipwrights “get out” parts as
components of a “build”. What y’all call a “ceiling” in a house
isn’t the same thing in a boat. Boats have “overheads” instead.
“Ceilings” in boats are the interior lining of the hull, in this
one softwood planks. “Floors” in boats are framing members
similar to the joists above your house foundation. What you walk
on in a boat is it “sole”.
vertical template is clamped temporarily next to the curve in
the ceiling your new panel has to fit. Find a distance that fits
both curve and template and mark it on the ticking stick. Here
I'm using 16 1/2". Draw the line and distance from several
points on the curve to the template. For more complicated
profiles you can use multiple distances and even make your
ticking sticks from wooden yardsticks
the template to your work area, align it to your bulkhead or
bunk panel and simply transfer line and distance to marks.